5.21.2011

Voyage to India (part 4): The Bahai'i house

In order to reach the Lotus Temple, you have to check your shoes. If you want to visit there, take my advice: go in the evening, when the sun is not burning with skin-frying intensity. I, along with everyone else silly enough to visit around 1pm, hopped up the path on a hot bamboo rug and literally burning hot stones. I barely held back the tears when I finally reached the temple, and stepped onto cool stones. The contrast alone was enough to make me want to stop and send up a prayer of thankfulness for the shade.

Tourists are herded inside of the temple in groups, and asked to be silent for the sake of those who would like to stop and pray.

I'll be you can imagine how well that went...

I was standing behind a woman who was having trouble controlling her daughter. And by "trouble" I mean she ignored the child, fawning over her boyfriend, until the girl started looking for ways to entertain herself, like trying to climb up the glass windows (not possible), or throwing small rocks in the small space between other tourists. When the commotion of this entertainment attracted glances of censure from Indian Aunties and Grandmas, the woman blushed with shame and began to smack the wayward girl wherever she could reach - the face, the leg, the arm. This little routine continued into the temple, with the slaps becoming sharper as the Mother's embarrassment increased.

I chose to sit far away from them.

The inside of the temple was beautiful - impeccable design on the walls and ceiling, with a beautiful alter in the middle. Unfortunately, (albeit understandably) photos were not allowed.

On the way out, I decided to visit the pools below. There were three pools were the weary and the faithful could refresh their feet. I desperately wanted to dip my feet in, but I tend to avoid bodies of standing water in hot countries where I have no medical coverage. For the sake of experience, I dipped in my big toe. Of course, I regretted that later that night, when I toe swelled painfully to twice its size.




Kidding. I was fine.

5.20.2011

Voyage to India, part 3: At Qutb Minar

After my valiant escape from the apartment, Mack's driver took me out of Gurgoan and into Delhi. The air was hot. The kind of heat that warms you all the way to your bones, then rapidly increases the temperature of your exposed skin to crispy roasting. Thank goodness for the air conditioned car, or my sun-deprived body would have given out from underneath me in about an hour.

Zipping along the highway, I was able to appreciate the scenery. Once I stepped outside to see Qutb Minar, I was asailed by another Indian treat: the smell. The air is too-full of everything: old food, old sweat, dust, pollution, refuge. The only smell more intense than the air was that of the men: the were strutting around riper than love apples. Despite my desire to be open-minded to culture and practice, I can to you honestly - I will not miss the smells.

At Qutb Minar, I paid the exorbitant foreigner entry fee (250 rupees, as opposded to 10 rupees for Indias), shook off a greasy, round man with a towel on his head who was determined to be my tour guide, and headed in. Inside, I listened to my audio guide and snapped pictures. It was all rather peaceful, surreal and pleasant. Two nearly toothless old women in saris, with buckets on their heads, gummed grins at me.

"Picture, picture!" They jerked their crooked fingers at my camera.

"You want a picture of me?" I was puzzled.

"No, no. Picture!" They pointed at each other.

"You want me to take a picture of you?"

The nodded enthusiastically.

"Ok." I focused my camera, and clicked. And no, I didn't realize I was acting like a tourist chump until after the shutter snapped.

"Money, money!" They held out their clawed palms. My face fell.

"Excuse me?"

"Money, money! Bucks, money!"

Giving money to strangers is always a tricky decision for me. Giving money for people trying to run a hustle on  me, is not.

"Oh, I don't have any money." I looked around, pleasantly nonplussed. Try to trick me, will you? Tell me the price after the fact, eh? Well, two can play that game.

"Dollar, dollar!" They were not-quite-snarling. "Money" they clawed close to my purse.

"I only have a card." I made a swiping motion. "Card only. I'm sorry."

They looked at each other, and at me, with disgust. Too bad, should've talked money up front. They sauntered off to find other likely chumps, and I slunk around the backside of the ruins, to continue snapping photos in peace.

I had almost reached the gross-and-sweaty-head-back-to-the-car point when I was stopped by a young couple. I tried to step out of the way, assuming I was in the background of their photograph, when they spoke up.

"Can we take a picture with you?"

"With me? Erm...sure?"

Later, Mack told me this was a common occurrence. People love taking photos with foreigners. Being a person who hates shots of randos in my pictures, I can't relate. But I smiled nicely whenever I was asked.

Next up, the Bahai'i house.

5.16.2011

Voyage to India, part 2: TRAPPED

Friday morning in Gurgoan, I tried to recover from jetlag as Mack ran around the apartment, late for work. I stayed in bed, listening to the stream of the shower and thinking about my day. I had a full schedule of tourist stops in South Delhi to make, along with a scheduled lunch break where I was instructed to eat a Dosa, a type of Keralan cuisine that I have never tried.

Despite my innate chaffing at being given a schedule on a vacation, I was looking forward to the day Mack had planned for me. Once she left for work with her roommate, I began to prep, sluffing off the debris of travel and scrubbing my teeth in order to face the day. I dressed, picking out a skirt that may or may not be see-through (I have not being able to determine whether it is or not, despite having owned it for years). Maybe not the best choice considering the culture, but I didn't have many wardrobe options for hot weather. I packed my purse with rupees, a water bottle, and a breakfast bar from the kitchen. One deep breath, and I head for the door.

I toggled the handle. The door didn't budge.

I toggled again. Then looked down.

The door had a key lock from the inside and the outside.

I had no key.

UH-oh....

Arms full, mind boggled with disbelief, I stood their stupidly toggling the door. Let me out...let me out...LET ME OUT!!

I can't believe this.

I made it all the way to India just to get locked inside of Mack's apartment.

Ok, don't panic.

First, I texted her. When she didn't respond, I called. No answer. I texted again, increasingly alarmed.

"Hey, I'm locked in! Help!"

Nothing.

Ok, time to think of other options. Option 1) pick the lock. Option 2) jump down from the balcony.

I ran to the balcony, threw back the curtain. Oh my goodness...I'm at least 5 floors up. And there is no convenient staircase or latter going down.

Okay...now, to find a hair pin.

I ran to Mack's room, searched through her jewelry and assorted knick knacks, but couldn't find one. I took an earring with a  long backing and returned to the door. It was starting to get warm in the hallway, which didn't help my rising aggravation as I tried to gently trip the lock mechanism without destroying Mack's earring. Years of watching people bust out of impossible situations with hair pins and credit cards proved to be inadequate education;

the lock was good and stuck.

Darn it!

Think! I called the driver.

"I'm locked in! Can you ask the guards if they have a spare key?" I asked.

"Yes, I come, Ma'am. Come down."

Hmm...that is not at all related to what I said. I switched to "talk to Susan" mode.

"The door is locked."

"Yes, Ma'am."

"I have no key."

"Yes, Ma'am?"

"I cannot leave."

Pause. "Ok, Ma'am. I will ask to the guards if they have a key."

Phew! Successful communication. I paced by the door waiting. In about 10 minutes, the bell rang.

"Hello?" I pressed my face against the door that blocked the way to freedom and my vacation. Let me out, let me out please!

"Ma'am? We checked and there is no spare key, Ma'am."

Well...so much for that.

"Ma'am? There's a paper here for you Ma'am." His footsteps walked away.

Great. Ten minutes wasted, and all he has to say is there is a paper, on the other side of the locked door. As if I had any way of getting it! As if being on the other side of that door wasn't the whole problem. Sheesh!

I paced, disgusted at my inability to break out of the room.  It takes 21 steps to get from Mack's bedroom to the dining room phone. It's 15 steps to get from the balcony to the front door. It's 5 steps to cross the entrance hallway. Let me out, let me out, let me out!!

Finally, after about 20 more minutes, Mack picked up her phone.

"Hey Mishi, what's up? I was in a meeting." she sounded too darn chipper.

"Yeah..." my voice dragged over the phone, "I'm locked in."

Pause. "OH MY GOD I'm so stupid!!"

"Also, I'm really hot in here."

Once I got Mack on the case, things happened rather quickly. The housekeeper was called, the driver was called, someone else's driver was set in motion, all on operation "Let Mishi Out". Mack told me where the AC was, and I chilled out for about half an hour more, before being sprung free by the housekeeper. Key in hand, I found the car. We zipped off, heading to South Delhi.

5.15.2011

India: The Taj...and the last little bit of Delhi

Gurdwara Bangla Sahib, Delhi




The Taj Mahal, Agra






footcovers that Mack and I were duped into buying for $10



Temple mosque, on a the right side




False mosque, on the left



India: toutisting around Northern Delhi

The Red Fort






Purana Qila










5.12.2011

Voyage to India, part 1: The plane

Normally, I would not start a story about a trip abroad by dragging you through extraneous flight details. Only if, say, something drastic and important happened there would I stop to tell you about how I happened to get from Airport A, to Airport B, and whether or not there were peanuts.

But I must, in telling you about India, mention the indelible experience of Air India, so buckle up, babies. Here we go.

If you have never had the pleasure of flying with Air India, let me briefly describe for you my first experience with them. I took a flight from Newark to Paris during college, my first solo trip. The stewardess were shockingly, appallingly rude. They angrily ignored all pleas and concerns until meal time, when they went around punching the headrests to wake sleeping passengers and screaming, "You want lamb. LAMB?? LAMB??" which I accepted, groggy and cowering, only to have a hot plate of curry and a lumpy rock of mutton slopped in front my sleep crusted eyes. After being so roundly abused, I vowed to never again fly with them.

But when I went to book my flight to Delhi, they sucked me in by undercutting competitor prices by at least $300.00. I decided to sacrifice common courtesy for cash, vowed not to sleep until after the meal was served, and bring my own water, so that I didn't have to make any special requests.

But oh, Air India, you threw me a curve ball. Those tricky bastards did the one thing that would have made me reconsider my decision in a heartbeat.

They went on strike.

I sh*t you not. Less than a week before take off, I received a notice from Orbitz, letting me know my fantasy of sharing a coconut with a baby monkey by the side of the Ganges was about to be completely derailed by the suddenly, unexpected and un-refunded cancellation of my flight.

CRAP.

Re-buying the ticket was not feasible. Missing the trip was unfathomable. So I did the reasonable thing...fell into a slump, punctuated by bursts of manic flight status checking, and reading the India Times for updates on the strike.

The strike did not miraculously end, but my flight wasn't cancelled either. So I went to the airport, rigid with nerves. So far, so good. I checked before I left. Not cancelled. Not cancelled, thank goodness.

Except...

When I got to the airport, I found out that my flight was...delayed. By 2 hours. I was so nervous that I spent the extra 2 hours by the gate, debating whether or not to go grab a cocktail. I didn't, deciding that being sloshed couldn't possibly help the situation, so I just had to suck it up.

And then finally,

finally,

"Air India flight 317 to Hong Kong with service to Delhi is now boarding."

Sweet Mother of Applesauce. Thank you, thank you, THANK you.

Woozy with relief, I snuck on the plane amid the first class and business class passengers. I knocked back a few chapters on my kindle until slightly after take off when the pilot-performing-stewardess duties came around offering the most wonderful, amazing thing.

Spicy fried peanuts!

After nearly 10 months of being inundated with soysauce and red pepper paste, pickling all foods into the one flavor that is Korea, I crunched down my peanuts with pure enjoyment, blissfully unworried about whether my  seat partner had a peanut allergy.

Curry. Peanut. Spice.

India, here I come.

5.11.2011

India: South Delhi, after lunch (part 2)

Humayan's Tomb site





graffiti inside the temple. Apparently, several people could not resist the "I was here" urge


Lodhi Garden (kind of reminded me of the Jungle Book)



The India Gate. Although, how a country so large could possibly be gated is beyond me.


The President's house...not open to the public. Probably a smart move.


Jantar Mantar (a large sundial/celestial tracker of sorts)


The requisite "I was here" photo. 



India: South Delhi in the morning (part 1)

Qutb Minar Complex






Ladies who tried to hustle me


Bahai'i House (Lotus Temple)



Lunch at Sagar Ratna; a Masala Dosa with a glass of Watermelon juice...mmm!


 

"I'm a new soul, I came to this strange world hoping I could learn a bit 'bout how to give and take." ~ Yael Naim